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Showing posts with label Italy. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Italy. Show all posts

Monday, March 21, 2011

Dogs in Italy: Adopting strays at Pompeii

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As they have for centuries, stray dogs roam the ruins of Pompeii. What’s different today is that someone is trying to find homes for them.

The (C)Ave Canem Project is dedicated to taking care of the dogs and adopting out as many as possible. Who knows where all these strays come from – maybe they mate, maybe people dump dogs there, maybe dogs just find their way there because it’s a city-sized park without cars where lots of people roam around. The dogs all look different, and while there aren’t any especially small or large ones, they do not look related.

Pompeii, which was buried under volcanic ash in 79 AD, boasts the famous floor mosaic of the cave canem sign. Cave canem is Latin for “beware of the dog.” This sign is in my bathroom, and not just because my dog drinks out of toilet. It’s there because it matches the black and white tile décor.

I think “ave” means “hail” as in the salutation “hail to the chief,” not what spits out in inclement weather. Think of the song “Ave Maria.” I suspect that (C)Ave Canem boils down to “Hail to the dogs of Pompeii” because cave canem is associated with Pompeii.

Then again, in Italy I made enough linguistic mistakes – some of them more than a tad embarrassing – that it’s sort of possible it means something else.

Whatever the name means, the Project was developed by cooperating national organizations in Italy.  They provide any necessary veterinary care, and vaccinate and alter them before adoption. As stated in their brochure,

“These are the main actions of (C)Ave Canem in order to create the conditions for a positive relationship between dogs and people….According to Pompeii ancient tradition, (C)Ave Canem works for educating visitors to respect animals while waiting for their adoption.”

A main reason for this Project is the safety of the 10,000 tourists who visit Pompeii almost every day. Healthy, appropriately-fed strays are less likely to bite tourists than starving, ill, frightened dogs. But nonetheless it’s a true love of dogs that created this effort.

Strays were running loose all over the ruins. They played, they slept, they barked. Some begged for tasty tourist food (I “accidentally” dropped some of my picnic lunch; my sisters both said “I saw that!”) and some just wanted to be petted. Some had identification tags for the project, but not all of them.

Forget Spot and Blackie. The dogs are given Latin names based on the archaeological areas of Pompeii and home owners. Europa, Diomede, and Vesonius need homes, whereas Quartia, Mamia, and Iuppiter have been adopted.

One of the dogs looked sick. I saw him soon after we arrived, and I checked on this German shepherd when we were leaving and he hadn’t moved. There was no representative from the project, no one to talk to about him, not even a donation box (the lack of which is unimaginable in the United States). Our Internet connection at the villa was down, and there were no Internet cafes where we were staying, so I couldn’t even email them about him.

If I could have adopted one, I would have wanted this black boy, seen here being petted by my niece Meg. I thought about it, of course, but common sense rapidly came over me and my wallet, and there are plenty of dogs in the Midwest that need homes. We were renting a villa, I had no equipment, and I didn’t know if a dog could be flown back on my airline during the holidays. Besides which, you had to make an appointment, meet with the group, and go through several steps – and that’s an excellent way to avoid impulse adoptions of well-intended tourists and Italians. Their website says that “The dogs will be provided with a tag, a microchip and European Passport in order to simplify their adoption” so I don’t know if they can be adopted to anyone living outside Europe.

Many of the dogs have been adopted, and are now stretched out in their new homes instead of the ruined city filled with tourists nattering in multiple languages. The universal language of love for dogs is clearly spoken here, and the yet-to-be-adopted dogs are cared for.

In Italian, adopted is adottato, which sounds wonderfully close to adored; to a dog, being adopted is being adored.


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Wednesday, February 9, 2011

Dogs in Italy: Coats are the norm in winter

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The day I arrived in Venice for my “Christmas in Italy” vacation, a couple of inches of snow had turned the stunning city of canals into narrow cobblestone paths of slush, perfect for slipping and falling. The Adriatic seafront wind was bitter, and the cold damp got in your bones.  In Venice they deal with snow by throwing salt on it and waiting for it to melt. Apparently they are not familiar with the concept of shoveling.

Dogs were everywhere in Venice, and every single one I saw was well behaved.  I can’t say that about many cities. I only heard barking twice, and each time it ended quickly.

Most notably, almost every dog I saw in Venice was wearing a coat to ward off chill; only one or two didn’t have one. Dog coats were nearly ubiquitous amongst the canine population. It wasn’t just little dogs wearing coats — even big dogs wore them, including golden retrievers. I didn’t see any dog wearing booties.

Dog coats were the norm everywhere we went, including the much warmer, southern Sorrento. Cold is all relative.

They sported basic coat styles in solid colors. Warmth seemed to be the main consideration, not fashion. I didn’t see a single frou frou coat, such as a pink leopard print with rhinestones; those types of coats now strike me as an American fancy. On the other hand, I’ve never seen so many fur coats on women (all older women) in one place. While Venice isn’t the fashion capital that Milan is, it’s still a northern Italian city in which elegant dressing is a way of life.

As a Wisconsinite, I find the idea of hard-core winter clothing for a temperature that rarely gets below freezing to be hilarious (32°F is the typical low for December in Venice), but there is definitely a wind chill factor. That Adriatic wind chills to the bone, so it’s no wonder that most people put coats on their dogs.

It’s the classic equivalent of your mother saying “I’m cold so you have to wear a sweater.” And like mothers everywhere, that extends to all members of the family.

Photos: Black dog with green coat in Venice; red coat in Venice; dark blue coat in Orvieto


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